Citizen Kane

I have a difficult relationship with Christopher Kane. I sometimes think he’s the shizz, and other times think he’s beyond overrated. This season is no exception. And for this autumn, I think both things at the same time. His own collection is, well…this….

(All images via

I don’t know why I’m not into the heavily embroidered leather/lace combo, as on paper it’s something I would go nuts about. Maybe it’s the colour palette, which seems arbitrary rather than considered. Or the placement of the decoration. Or maybe it’s the floral motif, which jars a little bit too much to work….And it’s just my opinion, but I just don’t think the pieces are well excecuted.

And then we have his collection for Versus. I was a big fan of Versus first time around, and in many ways, that early 90’s Vogue/supermodel/quilted leather & gold aesthetic has shaped the person I am today. I was expecting to love the new collection, and I do love it. And Mr. Kane designed it. Here, see for yourself

(All images via

Under Donatella’s guidance (Versus is Versace’s little sister), Christopher (is it cool if i call him that?) has released his true genius. He has reminded me why I love Versus as a brand, and also that I think he’s a really talented designer. The panelling on these dresses is beyond considered, it’s sublime. The combination of textures is just right and the colour palette and just everything……….I just used the word sublime. Enough said!!

Mabye this is just a personal taste thing and I simply don’t get his mainline collection. Or maybe I’m right, and his Versus offering is in fact miles better. Having range as a designer is a good thing, and testing boundaries and trying new things is the only way forward. But I think ultimately, unless you’re very very out there, the Versus collection will be selling better this autumn. What do you think??


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